"Last year, I went to a quaint pygmy of a hotel and spa in Cornwall: the Lugger, in Portloe. It's a tiny, whitewashed tumble of rooms atop a sea-lashed rocky cove - quite delightful and unpretentious. The spa is a jumble of small treatment rooms: chaotic, cramped and charming. I had a competent two-hour massage with home-concocted Seboni oils, and went to sleep. I love Cornwall and would return to the Lugger, unlike many, many supposedly palatial places that I care for not a jot".